Grab an Italian masterpiece for less
Would you like full access to over 7 million historical articles from The Times?
Want more information? Read our FAQs.
This text has been scanned from the printed page using an automated process called Optical Character Recognition (OCR). The text will in many cases not be 100 per cent accurate. Older articles tend to have very inaccurate readings, because of archaic typefaces and spellings and damaged source material.
Round The World. Mr. Thomas Cook, witiing on board the Pacific steamnship Colorado, under date Nov. 6, continuesi hisinteresting accoant of the journey now being taken round the world by a party of tourist under his guidance:- "Asuming that my letter from San Francisco reached yoU and was honoured with a place in kZc Times, 1 avail mybelf of the tanquillity of the Paeific and the -epecta- tion of meeting a returnrig mail steamer to add a few particular on American travel, which I tbink wIll be of service to strnaners visiting the United States, especially those who contemplate a tour ound the world. Bailroads and hotels are the two great esentials of ease and comfort in American travel, and thlese insti- tutions differ in their manag-t and provisions from European accommnaodation. I will endeavour to note some of the miost prominent advantages, and disadvantages of American as compared with English railways. ' The opee can of the American lines aFlord facilities of contact, annd meet tbhp necessitles of long journeys far better thaun the sectional and boxed-up system of English carriages.. Conductora have thorrough command of trains and can meet-any emergendes of travellers withont difi. calty. PsasSenera, too, are provided with many conveni. ences which catnot be afforded under the English system. The sleeping car and toilet arrangemerts are necessary ad- juncts to a railway ride of one to three thousand apileS ; and the baggage arrangements are perfect, thGUgh a little esr peasive in the tramtier department. Nevertheless, when vwork is well done most travellers are willing to pay liberally for its perlormnauce. lWhen you leave the hotel a Baggage Express eompany take charge of yotir trunks, &a., and you may walk or ride at discretion to t}e railroad depot, where luggage is cheeked by a strap and brass indicator being attached to it, a. corresponding brass cbeck being given to it, owner. When nemring the place of destination an agent of the Express Company comes through the cars, takes the brass check and gives a reeeipt for it, and the luggage is promptly taken to the hotel or other addreEs where it is desired to have it delivered; or, if thle tradeller wishes to go forward by a following train, a transfer is efletted, and a new check given. Baggage not wanted can be left at the depOt by murely with- holdiug the cheek until it is claired. The 'lie over' sys- tem is also a great advantrige. A traveller takes a through ticket rs fir as hs wishes to travel, but he can break his journey at any intermediate station by simply caking the train condustor for a 'lie over ticket,' and this niay be repeated as often as is desired. With our through tickets from New York to San Francisco we tarried a day at Ma- gara Falls, a day at Detroit, tbree days at Chicago, end three days at Salt Lake City, aud we might have stopped at lO or 1W other stations if we bad desired. The speed of trains is not equal to that of the English linea. The Pacific express of the Union and Central Padific lines, in counneuion with the fastest trains east of Chicago, only attains an average of about 19 miles per hour between New York and Sau Francisco, including short stop.pages of 20 or 25 minutes three times a day for refreshments, and longer delays at the junctions of lines. It takes about 170 hours to go 3,300 miles, and that in cludes seven nights in succession in the sleeping car. The ascent of the Roclry 2Iountains Lo the height of nearly 9,000 feet, and of the Sierra Nevada to about 8,000 feet, natur- ally reduces the general average of speed ; but the through journey is a wouderful achievement of science, energy, and Capital, aud our trains consisted of four great sleeping cars and four or five ordinary cas, all full of passengers. "Hundreds of Americans, with whom it has been my pri- vilege to travel in Enrope, have extolled the American sys- tem of railroad travelling for its cheapnes-s and equality. But these are, to say to the least, very questionable advan- tages over our own s5stem of selc&tion and fares. The through fare from New York to San Francisco is about 271. sterling-a fraction under 2d. a mile. A es- cond-class laro is quoted at about 211., uearly 1d. per mile. But to this frst-class must be added $21, or about 4L, for sleeping cars; and second-class passen- gers are not permitted to take sleepug car tickets-a species of exclusivenesB which loes not comport with Jiepublican equality. SleepiDgin carsisnot nearlyaseasy and pleasaut as in the state rooms of the Colorado on this Padac Sea; and the admixture of strangers and sexes is very repulsive to English traveller,- The second-cass and other travellers not provided with sleeping car acconomoda- tion must have a weary time of it,as their sats afford nosup port to the head and shoulders, and though a seat designed for two may have but one occupant, it is too short for horizontal refose. 'here are no-second-class cars, but the. holders of second-class tickets for the Pacidc ruute are generally restricted to the use of the cas appropriated to smoker,. The sleeping and drawing-room carsarethepro. perty and uudr the managemenatofan'outide' eouopany,ex. cepton theCentral Pacific Line,fromOgdem to San Francisco, where they are owned and wvorked by the railway company. In-other cases the Nllman Company provide the cars, and work them on their own account. The railroad companies run the cars and lave the advantage of the seats in the day time, the Pullman Company charging three or Your dollars extra per night fcr the sleepingaccon-omdatUoi. On the Erie line we travelled 1mcmn New lork to Buffalo in a really pleasant drawing-room car, beautifully carpeted, adfur. uiahed with elbuw chairs, mounted encolumne, and capable of bein, turned about in any diretion. This vas our plea- santest ride in the S,300 miles, for which we paid extra 8:21 (about 10s.) each paasou,ger. It is thTs bya double aTrangement that a select filrs-cassdiitinction is sustained. "The third-class arrangenDeDr of the American lines cor- pares very disadvantageously vwith the English third class. The ensgrant train is worked separmtely, or consists of cars attached to freight trains, and tLetime aLlotted to the iourucy froin New York to San Francisco is about 14 days. Hard lines' for poor settlers who have perhaps sold all they possesied, or borrowed, or depeand on charity for the means of getting to a country v.hich owes much of its prosperity to zettlers fr-om other lands. We saw an illostratiou of the troubles of this clas in the case of a poor woman and child, who were turned out of the car in which v second-class pasengers were riding, Und would have to wait at a wvayside station nearly a day for the emigrant traiu. Many such, with children, have to spend wearisome days and nights on harze board,', with perhaps scanty food, before they reach their destinations in the Westere Stat s, where they are going to enrich railroad cumpaules by the cultivation of their lands and the new territories of the States. in reference to tbis class of travellers, and to all the humbler classes, the Eag. li3h system offers decided dulvantages o-er the Americn. The spirited e"ample set by the 2didlaaul Company last April, anl copied by nearly anl others, of T Third class by all trains,' has been the greatest boon everoteered to the large class of travellers whose time is equally as valuable to thcm as that of the wealtby, and who have l1s money to spend in necessary reireshments on a long jour- ney. This is a matter that must soon egauge the con- sideration of Aumetican raulroad coapraies, aud thev ca- not afford to risk their popularity and good repute by allow- ingJohn Bull to keep ahead of them.; In the matter of pasenger fares, lEngland, with. its three-fold system, is quite as liberal as America. There are local rates in Ame- rica of 2cents (ihl) per mile, and thereare ates of 7, 8, and 9 cents. The short lie from Ogden to Salt lake City-about 35 miles-in charged 52A (rearly lOs.), with no return tickets. Vefily it is aliheat es bad to go to the city of the ' Latter-day- Saints ' as it used to be to go to Romein the ' ElolyWeek-,' when the most exacting charges were made on visitors. In winding up these Dotes on rail- way accoummodation and charges, I think the conpanies; on both sides of the Atlautie may learn leonis of mutual advantage. 'The transition from railroads and atetamlosts to hotels is, in many American cities, a very expensive affair, and requires travellers who wish to be ec6bomical' to be wide awake. 0o our lauding at Nlew York the proprietor of the coach that voilrs- in connexion with our hotel wanted $3 a head for my party, and wvould not uccept $2- nearly Se. But we engaged an express waggon to take our baggage for'eix persons for $3. WVe walked across the streets from the Ferry to the Broadway, and there took an omnibus for 10 cunts (5d.) each. An 'inldpendent' geutleman twho went from the same steamer tthesme hotel, ordered a coach, and was charged $6. At San Fran- cisco $2j was chaiged to each froai the ferry bost station to the hotel; in returning we paid aTimusfer Company $4 for baggage, and rode in street cars for i cants each. A carriage for fwur persons for's single hour was chared $3 and $2 an boor afterwards. In England wo can get carriages for 2.4. Gd. or 3s. an hour, aud in flomo or Naples wve can hire beautiful open carriages, with a pair of horses, foeW a day of nine hours, for 20f. Thus, a fran2 in Italy and a shilling in England sin e about equal to a dollar in America for cariage drives. The only drawback in the case of London is that it is tho worst provided city in the world for this class of sightseeing conveyance. 'We have given a fair trial to the hotel and refresh. meat room arrangements botween New York and San Fran- cisco, and fur various reasons I give the preference to American botels over theac of other cowutrie The prici paiid have varied from 3 to 41 dollars a day at the Graud. Central, New York; the International, iMagara; the' Ilussell, Detroit; the Sherman, Chicago; the WVsaker, Salt - Lke City; and the Grand, San Francso. The, supplies uf food at all these houses were Simply enormous and our greatest difficulty has - been to select wbat to eat and wbut to avoid from bills of fare showing firon 50 to 100 varieties. The Americn plan i to order aboat a due2 disaa of bb. mejasm veetable, putty, t.; S Bmdll portion is eaten from each dish and the leavings ' go no outbider can-tell where. This servics is repeated at least three times a day, besides which a suplle- meat can be had in the sbape oi tea or coffee, cakes, fruit, &c., for supper. But the best feature of the A mericas hotel tables is that relating to drinks. On every table large jugS of iced water are pled, aud tea and coffee un be ha.d. with every meal; but though the bill of fare generally has a wine list printed on the bark, there is no positive obliga. tion to drink., and cuatom does mot sanction the }abit of taking wixne and strong drinks with measl. The ba' je quite A sepaate arrangement of the hotel, and fre. quently in the hands of another proprietor. Americuns, If they drink at all, frequently 'take a drink' at the bar counter beforethey go into the dinieg xalooi; bu. tle dinner table is free from that slayery and exaction often seen and felt at English tables where some old' heavy zet' mauages to get in the chair, calbl for wine and holds all responsible for payment of equal ahares; and if nay one dares to object he is regarded as mean andexeoptoinal, I srw at the dinner of the Grand Central Hotel, NewYori:, about 203 ladies and gentlemen seated al tables, and I could only see a single glass contajoing beer, and not a bottle of wine. Iasked an int-igent waiter wheat was t1iought tf such exceptional drinkers. He replied, ' They are eithel English or come from the south.' The young lady whz had that odd glss of beer had an English face, sod she did not continue long at the table. The same general absence of strong drink characterized all the hotels wve visited, and I felt that it must be a great relief to stranue travellers to be freed from the feeling of obligation to drink 'for the good of the bouse,' or to avoid the tivable of being exceptionaL Those wvho thinu! tbey ' cannot live without it,' can get ' the drinkr' though in its use they constitate the exceptions. The Americans ase free from the slavery of the drirning customs of the table. I heard an English gentleman ask an officer of this steamer to drink wine with him, aund the reply Avas, 'I never drink wine at the table.' This strong anti-driukiog sentiment is powerfully aiding the authorities of Chicago in their determination to enforce the law against the open- ing of the drinking saloons on Sundays; and the same in- fluence of sentiment is felt in San Flrancisco,where, on one oftheday3-we were tbere, a saloon-keeper wasfined, and, not paying the fine, thrown into prison for selling drink to boys under 1G years of age. Vhila passing through the States I haveseen numerousreportsof cases whereacti9nshare been brought against drinksellers for losses and damages to faani. lies sccasioned by their supplying drunken husbands anl- fathers with liquor. Tne respectable hotel-keepers of America are generally clear of all such charges,as they oiler no inducements to drink at public tables, and never treat with disesteem those who altogether abstain. " In Ameriran hotels, great attention is paid to the pri. vacy and comfort uf lades, for whom large cnd elegont drawing-rooms are provided, with eparate entrance aul staircase, available also for gentlemen with ladies. The fust ifloor isgenerAllyappropriatedto dinineand breakfastsaloons end drawing-roonis, for which no extra charge is made. The ground floor and basement are appropriated to ths business offices of the hotel, post and telegraph offices, rail- way ticket office, newspaper and book stands, barber's shop, smokidg-room furnished with desks for correspond- ence, lavatory, shops for the sale of travellra' requisites, man millinery, pharmacy, and-generally in the most remote part-a drinkiog ba Every guest on enter- ing the hotel is required to enter his name in the register on the counter, and then, and not till then, a bed-room is allotted, and the number of the room is entered by the clerk in the register, which is open to the inspection of vi,itors and inquirers, the lobby, or centrial court, being open to the public. Private sitting roomns are seldom required, and thus the expense of selecting accommodation is saved. Washing and ironing arrangements arn generally connected with the hotels, but in this departmeSt care is necessary, as washing bills ere generally very high. At Salt Lake City I paid $4j (nearly ISs.) for washing and 'getting up' 30 articles, 25 of which cousisted of sa-ll pieces, such as collars, culSs, pocket handkerchiefs, &c. Iu other places tho charges are nearly equal to these of ialt Lalke City. " The refreshment rooms en rozste between the Atlantic and the Pacidfic are generalUy vell supplied with every variety of the best food, fruits, &c., and the attendance is of the very best character. Along the line of railway over the prairies, the Rocky Moutaains, and at the summit of the Sierra Nevada, we were astonished to observe the amplitudo of the supplies and the stmart activity of the waiters of asi kinds and colours- Aseeitan 'and English whipe neas, decently attired and becoming maidens, negroes of every shade; of colour, emd Chinamen clothed from head to foot in frocks of snowy whiteness. The refreshment car wvas only attached for two meals, on the Burlington and Mlissoari River line, bat the three appointed stopping places for the day were generally well timed, and we had always a clear 20 or 25 minutes for a mueal, the charge for which was a dollar or 75 cents., but most frequently the former amount. " On the steamers our mieals are serv-ed rith the utmost regularity, and all our waiters are Chiua boys, quick of per- ception. cheerful in their services, and quiet as lambs. Those who tnu out early in the inoraing can get coftes from 7 to 8 o'clock ; at 9, a substantial breakft is served; luch at 1 ;dinner at D, and tea at 8 Ot. With the thermo- meter at 66 to 72, it's pretty hard work to respond to all the callsof thegong. Oarlife on thePacific isverymuonotonous; not asail of nay kind has been snen since we left tLe GoldenGateof Californim. Flocks of strangebirds wiziih wings at least sieet from tip to tip, followed us a long way, buthave given up the chase; half a dozeu sharlks tried ouce their swimruiDg y3wers against the Colorado, but we beat thenL For three days w iuhave made just the same genutlespeed ofE 266mile.a idy;alis tramu.lul and serene,and in five times 24 huura we have made LUbU muiles out of the 4,780, on a straight line to Yokohama. Our mono- tony has been twice brouen by cries of 'Fire 1' but these crie3 have only beea uttered to call up the officers and crew for exercise; and it is quite amusing to see the China boys rush out from hatchways and every available porthole asd tale up hatchets, buckets, and apply the nose, fore, aft, and anioships.,tOur good Captain Varsam combines humanity with ster discipline, and every morning and evening taspeuts every part of the ship viith tho keenest eye for dust or irregularity. But of all scrubbere and dusters I never saw the like of John Qhienan- In addition to our 50 cabin passengers, including the Japanese Prince and party lately in England, we have about 5U steerage p3sseugers, most of whom are Chinese, returuing home to live on the 300 or 40) dollars they have madg by gold washing, mining, clothes washing, ironing, and other domestic engagements. All aro quiet and gentle, nut a rowdy fellow among, them. In a week or ten days more we expect to reach the 150th degree of longitude, when Lo;ndon will be under our feet, and a day will mysteriously drop fiom the calendar. laut this going round the world is ivery easy and almost imper- ceptible business; there is no difficulty about st, and but for the discrepancies of watches, the duily logg of Captain lWaraatu, and the salubrity of the climate in in o- vember, we should not fealize our approach to the meri- dional line, or suppose it possible that the next land wo see will be ihat of -the rising sun, from which point I may pos- sibly send a few additional notea of onr progress for the infoumation of home frieals who read 1L,e Tis%rWe" -- EQOVI THE WOBLD.
Contact our advertising team for advertising and sponsorship in Times Online, The Times and The Sunday Times, or place your advertisement.
Times Online Services: Dating | Jobs | Property Search | Used Cars | Holidays | Births, Marriages, Deaths | Subscriptions | E-paper
News International associated websites: Globrix Property Search | Milkround
Copyright 2009 Times Newspapers Ltd.
This service is provided on Times Newspapers' standard Terms and Conditions. Please read our Privacy Policy.To inquire about a licence to reproduce material from Times Online, The Times or The Sunday Times, click here.This website is published by a member of the News International Group. News International Limited, 1 Virginia St, London E98 1XY, is the holding company for the News International group and is registered in England No 81701. VAT number GB 243 8054 69.